Maurice Lacroix AIKON PVD Watch Review
The Maurice Lacroix AIKON PVD is the latest addition to the brand’s hugely popular AIKON collection. Comprising two references, one in blue (39 mm) and a second version in gunmetal (42 mm), they both share much in common. Most notably, the brand has used PVD to endow each variant with an enchanting metallic sheen.
AIKON, a legend since 2016
In 2016, Maurice Lacroix released the inaugural version of the AIKON. The model received widespread approval from the start, encouraging the Swiss firm to release additional variants. Indeed, over the years, the brand has unveiled a plethora of references, including skeletons, chronographs, large date models, divers’ watches, etc.
There are several reasons for the AIKON’s success. From the outset, the brand, having identified a gap in the market for an urban-themed watch, released a series of references, each contemporary in style and designed for young, aspirational consumers. Underpinning this strategy, the luxury marque ensured that each variant delivered, as the brand likes to say, ‘high perceived value’. Certainly, as a witness to the AIKON phenomenon, I have always been able to discern the impressive quality-price ratio conferred by the firm’s products.
At this juncture, some companies would ease off the gas and enjoy the spoils of their historic efforts. Clearly, the personnel based at the brand’s Saignelégier HQ don’t subscribe to this philosophy, continuously evolving the AIKON and releasing new variants to seduce prospective purchasers.
Physical Vapour Deposition (PVD)
Now, the firm has released the new AIKON PVD, comprising two models, a blue 39 mm option and a second version in smoked gunmetal, measuring 42 mm in diameter. While Maurice Lacroix has used PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition) on other models, the bezel and case on these watches look very different courtesy of their unusual gleaming appearance.
Although many consumers will be familiar with cars dressed in metallic paint, it is rare to see a watch coated in PVD that exudes such an extraordinary metallic sheen. So, what is it about owning an object that has a coloured metallic appearance? Allow me to elaborate.
The metallic look
Thinking of changing your car? Inevitably, you will peruse a colour chart and select your preferred hue. Surprisingly, while most car manufacturers add a surcharge for metallic paint, they still remain more popular than solid colours.
Metallic-style paints first appeared in the 1930s when fish scales were added to paint to create a pearlescent sheen. It is reputed that it took 40,000 herring to create just one kilo of paint, making a metallic paint job incredibly expensive and the preserve of only a small number of affluent motorists.
In the 1950s, ALCOA, an American firm, began producing aluminium flakes to be added to paint. The resultant paint contained metal flecks that readily engaged with sunlight. Cheaper to produce than the metallic-style paints of the 30s, the popularity of metallic paint has since grown exponentially.
Now, the Jura-based watch brand has unveiled two new versions of its popular AIKON model, each suffused with PVD that confers a bewitching glossy metallic sheen. However, what differentiates the metallic appearance of these models is that the finish is not speckled with tiny glints of metal. Instead, the metallic sheen of the bezel and case appears homogenous and devoid of any metallic inclusions. This makes much sense. A watch, an object far smaller than a car, is a relatively small canvas that could look unduly fussy if festooned with numerous blotches of aluminium powder.
Beyond its metallic look, there are several other characteristics worthy of discussion.
Maurice Lacroix AIKON PVD dial
Both the 39 mm and 42 mm models share a familial likeness. For example, they both have faceted hour and minute hands lined with Super-LumiNova, a lithe central sweep seconds hand, luminescent indexes and a dial endowed with a Clous d Paris motif, a pattern comprising rows of pyramidal projections. Furthermore, a snailed minute track encircles the dial, hugging the inside of the case.
However, the 42 mm model has a completely different character to its fresh-faced 38 mm sibling. The gunmetal-hued timepiece has a stealthy appearance with numerous dark accents. The degradé dial has a lighter tone near its centre and assumes a darker appearance near its outer edge. This understated look is augmented with a black M-logo, dial text and matte black treatment on the hands and indexes.
Each variant is likely to appeal to different customers, no doubt selected based on their physical stature and personal taste. Nevertheless, irrespective of which reference is chosen, both dials prove eminently legible.
Maurice Lacroix AIKON PVD case
Despite both models having different dimensions, they both proffer superb wearer comfort, an attribute they share in common with all AIKON timepieces.
A delightful detail found on the AIKON PVD is the combination of case finishes. The six arms, spanning the bezel are highly polished while the majority of case surfaces are brushed. This blend of finishes endows the case with a sumptuous feel seldom found at this price.
Both versions are presented on colour-coordinating M-branded rubber straps. Furthermore, both variants are equipped with the Maurice Lacroix Easy Strap Exchange System, providing the wearer with a user-friendly means of swapping one strap for another without the need for tools.
ML115 calibre
To the rear of the watch, a pane of sapphire crystal affords sight of the self-winding movement, the ML115 calibre. The movement has a frequency of 28,800 vph (4 Hz), contains 26 jewels and will run autonomously for 38 hours. Consistent with the brand’s philosophy of delivering ‘high perceived value’, it is also adorned with perlage and colimaçcon.
Maurice Lacroix AIKON PVD – closing remarks
Inspired by the Calypso, a former Maurice Lacroix model, the AIKON has proved an unprecedented success for the brand. Moreover, the AIKON collection has attracted favourable comments in the watch press, referring to the refined execution of each reference, impressive levels of wearer comfort and the watch firm’s prowess for delivering ‘high perceived value’.
Underpinning the watch brand’s achievements is its creativity and inventiveness. Since launching the model, the company has been attentive to the needs of its clients, releasing an array of new and interesting variants, offered in different colours, various sizes and equipped with a variety of complications. If the car industry is anything to go by, these new AIKON PVD models, with their enchanting metallic sheen, will undoubtedly prove a resounding success
Further reading
https://www.mauricelacroix.com/
Technical specifications
- Model: Maurice Lacroix Aikon Blue PVD Limited Edition
- Reference: AI6007-PVC00-430-4
- Case: stainless steel, diameter 39 mm, height 11 mm, water resistance 20 ATM (200 m), sapphire crystal to the front and exhibition case back.
- Functions: hours, minutes, central sweep seconds
- Movement: automatic ML115 calibre, self-winding movement; frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz), 26 jewels, power reserve 38 hours.
- Strap: blue rubber with stainless steel pin buckle with PVD coating. Includes Easy Strap Exchange system
- Price: €2400 (RRP as of 23.1.2024)
- Limited Edition: 888 pieces
- Model: Maurice Lacroix Aikon Gunmetal PVD Limited Edition
- Reference: AI6007-PVB00-330-2
- Case: stainless steel, diameter 42 mm, height 11 mm, water resistance 20 ATM (200 m), sapphire crystal to the front and exhibition case back.
- Functions: hours, minutes, central sweep seconds
- Movement: automatic ML115 calibre, self-winding movement; frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz), 26 jewels, power reserve 38 hours.
- Strap: black rubber with stainless steel pin buckle with PVD coating. Includes Easy Strap Exchange system
- Price: €2400 (RRP as of 23.1.2024)
- Limited Edition: 888 pieces
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